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The Wonders of Bark Cloth

Samoa, Tutuila, Leone Village, 1911, Honolulu Academy of Arts
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Samoa, Tutuila, Leone Village, 1911, Honolulu Academy of Arts

It’s hard to know exactly when humans started using bark cloth, but it’s likely that it predates weaving. Historians have found examples of bark cloth from across the Pacific, Indonesia, Africa and Asia.

Some of the earliest evidence of bark cloth come from Uganda, where skilled workers still create the textile through processes they developed centuries ago. First making a slit at the base of the Mutuba tree, workers cut through the top layer of bark. From there, they separate the inner bark from the tree in one large piece, and wrap the tree trunk in Mutuba leaves to protect it as it heals.

Then, they scrap and boil the inner bark to make it flexible. After beating it down to a single layer, they wring it out and stretch it taut. After several days of drying in the sun, the fabric — now strong and soft — is ready.

Although most tree species would die from this process, Mutuba trees can live through annual harvests for 40 years, with a single tree producing 8,000 square yards of cloth in its lifetime — enough to cover two football fields!

Historians have found evidence of bark cloth dating back 700 years, when only royalty were allowed to wear it. But its uses have diversified — it’s been used as currency, in religious ceremonies and as a symbol of protest against colonialism

In 2005, UNESCO named Ugandan bark cloth a “masterpiece of intangible cultural heritage.” And today, you can find bark cloth on the fashion runway! Ugandan born designer Jose’ Hendo creates bark cloth for her London-based collections, fostering culture of environmentally friendly and sustainable fashion.

The clothing we wear is a necessity, a fashion statement and, sometimes, a symbol about what we value. I can't imagine wearing anything better than an elegant garment made entirely of trees.

Dr. Nalini Nadkarni is an emeritus professor of both The Evergreen State College and the University of Utah, one of the world’s leading ecologists and a popular science communicator. Dr. Nadkarni’s research and public engagement work is supported by the National Geographic Society and the National Science Foundation. Any opinions, findings, and conclusions or recommendations expressed in this material are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of the National Science Foundation. @nalininadkarni
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